Cleopatra’s Charms: The Ancient Beau Ideal in American Press at the Turn of the 19th and 20th centuries

 
PIIS013038640013377-2-1
DOI10.31857/S013038640013377-2
Publication type Article
Status Published
Authors
Affiliation: National Research University “Higher School of Economics”
Address: Russian Federation, Moscow
Journal nameNovaia i noveishaia istoriia
EditionIssue 1
Pages60-68
Abstract

The turn of the 19th and 20th centuries became an era of crucial socio-economic changes for the United States. One of the main consequences of these processes was a gradual rethinking of the position of women in society, which led to a serious revision of beauty standards, in which women themselves now took an active part. At the same time, the markets of large cities was actively saturated with the offer of all kinds of goods and services that promised to gain external attractiveness. An important platform that provided space for both discussion and marketing was the rapidly developing mass media, which replaced the former party press. Living at the expense of revenues from advertising, the mass periodicals began to actively appeal to their female audience. The authors of polemic articles and advertisements used different arguments to convince the new readership. Quite often, the journalists turned to the legacy of Antiquity, which still preserved its high status. Based on the materials of mass periodicals of large American cities at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, this article shows how journalists used ancient history to promote self-care practices and advertise certain goods and services. It helps to appreciate rhetorical strategies employed by supporters and opponents of various features of the new woman's lifestyle and the place historical analogies occupied in their argumentation.

KeywordsAmerican history, gender history, beauty industry, mass media, reception of classical antiquity
Received26.05.2020
Publication date29.01.2021
Number of characters28390
Cite  
100 rub.
When subscribing to an article or issue, the user can download PDF, evaluate the publication or contact the author. Need to register.

Number of purchasers: 0, views: 575

Readers community rating: votes 0

1. Baldasty G.J. The Commercialization of News in the Nineteenth Century. Madison, 1992.

2. Blanchard M.W. Boundaries and the Victorian Body: Aesthetic Fashion in Gilded Age America // The American Historical Review. Vol. 100. № 1. 1995. P. 21–50.

3. Boorstin D. The Americans: The Democratic Experience. New York, 1974.

4. Dasler Johnson W. Cultural Rhetorics of Women's Corsets // Rhetoric Review. Vol. 20. № 3–4. 2001. P. 203–233.

5. Davies M. Corsets and Conception: Fashion and Demographic Trends in the Nineteenth Century // Comparative Studies in Society and History. Vol. 24. № 4. 1982. P. 611–641.

6. Fowler R. “On Not Knowing Greek:” The Classics and the Woman of Letters // The Classical Journal. Vol. 78. № 4. 1983. P. 337–349

7. Mattingly C. Appropriate [ing] Dress: Women's Rhetorical Style in Nineteenth-Century America. Carbondale, 2002.

8. Morantz R. M. Making Women Modern: Middle Class Women and Health Reform in 19th century America // Journal of Social History. Vol. 10. № 4. 1977. P. 490–507.

9. Peiss K. Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty Culture. Philadelphia, 2011.

10. Schudson M. Discovering the News: A Social History of American Newspapers. New York, 1981.

11. Schweitzer M. “The Mad Search for Beauty”: Actresses' Testimonials, the Cosmetics Industry, and the “Democratization of Beauty” // The Journal of the Gilded Age and Progressive Era. Vol. 4. № 3. 2005. P. 255–292.

12. Shannon L.E. Monuments to the “New Woman”: Public Art and Female Image-Building in America, 1876–1940: Academic Dissertation. Iowa City, 2013.

13. Spring J. Educating the Consumer-Citizen: A History of the IIIriage of Schools, Advertising, and Media. Mahwah, 2003.

14. Verbrugge M.H. Able-Bodied Womanhood: Personal Health and Social Change in Nineteenth-Century Boston. New York, 1988.

15. Winterer C. Victorian Antigone: Classicism and Women's Education in America, 1840–1900 // American Quarterly. Vol. 53. № 1. 2001. P. 70–93.

Система Orphus

Loading...
Up